So I thought I’d write a little memo on skin adhesives. I do not consider myself a great master, but still have a diploma and knowledge too. Skin glue. Types and their application, photo number 1 Some knowledge I would like to share with you (who is interested) the best types of glue for leather.

Frankly speaking, I can no longer look at these videos and workshops with self-taught, which even the names of glue do not know and tell with a smart look, but people believe them and then “shine” this knowledge in front of others!!!! Skin glue. 

I have nothing against those people who want to try something new, a new kind of creativity for themselves. That’s great! It’s good when a person learns something all the time and doesn’t stand still! But you have to learn the right things so that you can apply them! Here we go!!!

I’ll show you the basic adhesives that are used in leather goods. Let’s consider all the glue in detail:

Neuride

It is similar in consistency to honey: yellow-brown, transparent, liquid. The glue is used for gluing some types of soles, for haberdashery (belts). It is tightly grabbed. There are two ways of gluing: cold and hot (ie, with the activation of the glue film). On each jar there is an application manual and modes for gluing.

Frankly speaking, it is more suitable for shoemaking.

Dismocolor glue

The glue is crystal clear, liquid. Suitable for gluing the sole (some types), restoration of cuts on leather products, gluing small parts. It also has two modes of gluing: cold and hot. Each jar has an application manual and gluing modes. Grasps the “death” adhesive for leather. 

Warning! When using this adhesive, do not knock on the bonding point, but press and iron well!!!

“Rubber” glue

This glue is used for temporary/alternative operations (like sewing patterns) (bending, gluing patterns before sewing, making “reapers”, applications, etc.). Gluing is not reliable. It is liquid in terms of consistency, yellowish-white in color, turbid.

To help you:

• Remove any residual/excess glue with a piece of rubber or roll the spools out of the frozen rubber glue (they always form around the neck of a leather glue jar
• when working with glue is in a well-ventilated room (or if there is such a luxury of glue-applied operations to be carried out under the hood).
• the glue must always be closed!!! (i.e. opened – smeared – closed) otherwise it dries out quickly.
• Different countries produce the same glue (with the same name), but each mode has its own. Familiarize yourself with the label before you use it.
• Rubber glue can be diluted with peeled gasoline (sold in household stores), nairite special diluent; dysmocoll with acetone.
• Pour as much glue into a jar as you need to work today.
• and remember to clean the brushes in the solvent after using skin glue.

There is also glue “Moment” in the tubes (the crystal is practically a disc breaker; rubber, analogue of rubber glue, etc.) Need to read on the package. This option is perhaps more convenient for the manufacture of accessories.